Bat Houses

Bat House General Information

I build bat houses of varying sizes, colors, and placement. If you have a special order or requirement - just place a custom order. Glad to build to suit.

A single chamber box is a great starter bat house. Bats prefer larger structures which offer a wider range of stable temperatures. A tightly built single chamber bat is a good "starter" box

All interior wood must be roughened for bats to readily cling to. Some commercial boxes staple screening to the inside of the box which may eventually fall off as condensation and urine rust the staples. Landing pads must have grooves for the bat to land and hold onto – our bat houses have 3/16” grooves all the way up to the top of the chamber.
Shingled roofs for long time protection.
Nailed together with sealed seams to prevent warp and separation at the seams allowing unwanted ventilation and disuse.
·Some people insist on leaving bat boxes unpainted. While in certain regions the natural wood color may be a suitable color, there is no good reason for the structure to go unprotected. While cedar is rot resistant, it will warp and separate the seams just as much as any other wood material. Green is a recommended color for bat houses but I will paint any color of your choice.
Bat research has proceeded at a very fast rate, thanks to improved communication among many different hobbyists and biologists across the country. For example, a tall open-bottomed bat house is now preferred over smaller closed bottom designs which tend to attract more parasites.
Old plans. Bat house plans can be found in a variety of places, which is good. Unfortunately, many posters, books, and flyers were published years ago with now antiquated plans. Frighteningly, this information is still distributed by many reputable sources. A stack of utterly horrid plans obtained from a state wildlife agency were seen distributed at a wildlife program in just a few years ago.
Recycled" material. Some people construct bat houses of decent design but with lumber salvaged from demolished structures in effort to cut costs. As some pesticides can leave active residues for years, approach used lumber with care.

Problems with improper placement:

The greatest bat house in the world will never contain a bat unless it is placed properly in the field. In cool climates it is best to avoid shady locations at all costs. Often this limits the mounting options to strategically placed new posts or sunny chimneys. Bad placement includes the following:
·A bat house that is in a shady location. It needs a minimum of seven hours of morning sunlight. ·
A bat house mounted on a tree. Rarely will the box ever receive enough direct sunlight in cool climates. · Bat house placed on a structure, directly under the eves. Again, this may be simply too shaded. ·
Placed too far from permanent water. Dry, arid locations are less desirable, though bats will drink from swimming pools.
Located over bright surfaces which reflect light into box. Shiny flashing or even pans to collect guano may deter use at certain times of the season. ·
Located near burn barrels or air vents where smoke or strong wind will disturb bats. Beware of air conditioner units which may not be active when installation occurs. ·
Erected where the box is prone to vandalism. Shaking the bat house to watch them fly out during the daytime- yes, your bats will abandon the roost.
Placed in brightly lighted areas. Avoid mounting where dusk-to-dawn lights shine directly onto the box. · Erected directly along roads, where bats are vulnerable to automobile traffic during their dawn return. ·
No maintenance. Some mounting solutions make a quick yearly inspection into a difficult and even dangerous ordeal. Bat houses do require minor wasp and seam inspection, otherwise bats will begin to abandon the box. Be alert for a hornet invasion as well; bats will immediately abandon a bat house until these aggressive insects are removed.